Diamonds & Granulation With Milly Maunder

Hi Milly, tell us how you first discovered jewellery making and what was it you loved about it?

My first introduction to jewellery making was actually in India when I was 19.

A friend and I, who I was travelling with at the time, did a five day silversmith course. I absolutely loved it. We sat on a cushion in this tiny room with just a small table in front of us with a torch and charcoal soldering board. This is the lady who first introduced me to the granulation technique you will see in a lot of my jewellery today.

I then went off to University to study Biomedical Science, I didn't enjoy it really and I missed the creative and experimental side of things and I knew then I wanted to work with jewellery and gemstones – at this point, I actually thought I would love to grade diamonds and value antique or auction house jewellery.

That's when I found GIA (Gemological Institute of America) where I studied Gemmology from their London campus, then took their graduate jeweller programme in Carlsbad, California. Since then I have loved experimenting with metal, pushing them to the limit to see what texture and forms I can create. I think if I'd thought about it more at the time I could have cut out everything in the middle and gone straight to California and sat at the bench.

What’s your favourite metal to work with and why?

I love working with yellow gold, I love the textures and different colours you can achieve just from a different finish, be it matte, polished, hammered or just freshly cast. Luckily yellow gold is starting to become a lot more fashionable again.

I do also love working with white gold, especially when the customer asks for a matte finish – I love the darker grey tones you can get from a matte white gold.

What are your goals for this year?

This year I have just launched my first ever wedding bands collection so that is what I am really focusing on. I love creating bespoke engagement rings and wedding bands as it is so exciting for the couple and the whole experience is so special.

I am also working on my website (currently closed for maintenance) to create a ‘buy now’ section for jewellery that will be kept in stock and available for next day dispatch which is exciting. I just hope to keep growing my company and enjoying the process.

We love your diamond designs, what is it about diamonds you love?

What is not to love???

I have an obsession with coloured diamonds, mainly browns, blacks, grey and champagne colour although I am starting to branch out to some yellow tones that I think would be stunning for summer or spring next year. I love how unique and rustic they look.

Each diamond is special and unique to the person who wears it and I think this complements the look of my designs; no two granulation rings will ever be identical. They sparkle just like a flawless diamond just in a more subtle way. I find them so intriguing.

What’s your favourite type of diamond?

Easy! A salt and pepper diamond.

They are stunning and can look totally different from all angles dependant on the inclusions and where the light is coming through.

I am really starting to love the emerald cut/octagon shaped salt and pepper diamonds so they would be top of the list for the next order.

We love your granulated designs, what are your top tips for using this technique?

Practice, practice and more practice.

To achieve the granulated look you are essentially fusing the small beads to the ring/pendant/setting. So you are trying to achieve a slight surface melt between the two. There is a very fine line between fusion and melting the entire piece. My top tip would be practice a lot and observe the way the metal is moving and how it looked just before you removed the heat. You can always add more heat but you cannot undo a melted ring!

Tell us more about your workspace and how you make it your own!

My workshop is in a converted barn at my parent’s house – I am so lucky to have such an amazing area to work in.

I have two jewellers benches – one is an old desk and the other was made for me by my granddad which he has signed and dated – I do all my soldering on one and the other is set up for finishing, polishing and assembling.

I find the two desks encourage me to move around and not sit in the same position for hours on end, I am constantly moving between the two which I find is a lot better for avoiding aching backs which a lot of jewellers suffer from.

My family's puppy (7 months now) is out in the studio with me most days which I love – if you follow me on Instagram you will have probably seen a lot of her!

When you’re not making jewellery, what do you get up to?

I love to be active; I am not one for staying still a lot. I love going to the gym and running. At the weekends I usually watch whichever brother is playing rugby and see friends.

In the summer I love to water ski and generally be near the sea. My boyfriend and I love to travel, in the UK and abroad, we have just booked to go back to San Diego (where I did my jewellery course) so I am currently spending a lot of time booking lots for us to do there.

What’s your favourite piece of jewellery you’ve made and why?

This is actually a really tough one. One of my favourite pieces of my designs to wear is the BUDO hoops – I live in them and have just made a ‘mini’ version for day to day.

The most sentimental piece I have made is a Black Diamond Solitaire that I made with money I was left from my grandfather, so this one is very special to me. I bought the diamond in California when I had passed all my exams and it was one of the first pieces I made when I came home.

My favourite design was actually a rework of someone’s diamond rings they no longer wear. We melted down the gold and then set the 8 diamonds amongst granules. It was so sparkly and special.

What’s your favourite gemstone?

I feel like most people will guess this… but it would have to be a salt and pepper diamond.

I also really love emeralds but don't often work with them, as they are not hard enough for the process of setting the stones amongst granules.

What is one top tip you’d give to someone wishing to start their own jewellery business?

Stick to your own style and enjoy it.

What’s your favourite social media platform to get your jewellery out there?

I use Instagram to advertise my jewellery and I use Facebook to advertise events I am either attending or hosting.

I have never really got on with Twitter? I find with Instagram people use it nowadays for inspiration and to find new designers. I often buy something I have seen on Instagram so it is a great platform to reach lots of people who would potentially buy from you. It is like an online portfolio really.

How would you describe your jewellery in 3 words?

Unique, handmade, granulation

What’s your favourite thing about creating bespoke designs?

I love the bespoke design process. It is so special getting to create something from someone’s imagination and usually to celebrate a special occasion.

Someone actually said to me a while ago - ‘how lovely that you always get to work with people who are celebrating, people buy jewellery to mark special occasions’ and it is so true, I love meeting with customers to create their special heirloom design.

What’s one skill you’d like to master?

Engraving, I would love to learn how to hand engrave initials scrolls and shields for rings and pendant but it is a real art and take a lot of practice. There is an amazing 3-month course in Italy I would love to take one day.

Top 3 Kernowcraft products you’d recommend!

Salt and pepper diamonds, pastel sapphires and the alligator tape (this stuff means I can be a full time jeweller AND have nice nails)

Also in this section:

shop alligator tape for jewellery making

What Our Customers Say...

Frank Wilson

It is always a joy to deal with your Company and your hints and tips always help me to improve my skills and encourage my interests. Thank you for caring about us small enthusiastic silversmiths!

Helen

Just wanted to say thank you for picking such beautiful stones for my order. I'm halfway through making a ring for my daughter and the rose cut rainbow moonstones are particularly yummy. Thank you!

I added a special request for moonstones with strong blue/green flashes and received 3 briolettes which were exactly that - some of the prettiest moonstones I’ve seen. Thank you!

Rhiannon Piper

The opal I received is absolutely amazing and just perfect. Its such a beautiful stone and I tried it with my wedding dress yesterday and its just set it off so well.

Claire

I just wanted to say a big thank you for the beautiful sapphires that arrived today. Hannah picked out just what I wanted and I’m over the moon with them.

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I’ve used Kernowcraft as a supplier for findings and pearls since beginning my business 8 years ago, because I know I can absolutely rely on the quality I get. The service is pretty impeccable too.

Daniel Coe

The customer service I have received from you and the help has been second to none. If only all companies were so helpful and understanding that i am a complete newbie. The retail world would be a better place.

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Always too many temptations, but a joy to look through. Thank you for such good service. I have to be very strict with myself when I visit your website!

Marshal

Thank you to the lady who went to a great deal of trouble to find a very small opal that fitted a bezel cup. The work is now complete and looks very nice - my wife is delighted with the result.

Frank Wilson

I have grown as a jewellery maker over the last year or so due to the encouragement the team have given me - they are all experienced jewellery makers or keen crafters. They have helped to guide me through my inventory, offered helpful tips and advice on all manner of silver working.

Lydia Farrow

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Catriona

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Mihaela Ciubotaru

I am very happy with my products... it is wonderful to have a reliable source of materials and gems with a fast delivery and a lot of tips on how to use the tools we buy.

Sarah Tiley

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Deborah Roberts-Barter

I have sent a couple of email enquiries today, which have been really quickly answered. This customer service is what made me order with you straight away!

Lynn Carson

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Hayley Meredith

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George Inglis

Great looking website, one of the best I've seen and used. Good search function, good range of products, good prices and great advice for jewellery makers of all abilities. All-in-all a great site and one I'll use again and again.

Catherine Warwick

Just received my order that I placed only yesterday. I wanted to say thank you! I am delighted with the choice of cabochon, setting and books. Now I have to read up on how to set it! FABULOUS SERVICE - Thank you!

Claire Hall

Kernowcraft is my go to for all my gemstones! Their stones are the first ones I show when offering my clients stone choices and I can't recommend their customer service enough! This is a company that cares!

Janice Scragg

Your website is easy to use, your products excellent, nice friendly service on the phone and delivery quick, excellent. Thank you and well done Kernowcraft. Gold star!

Dorota Todd

I just wanted to say how impressed I am with the quality of pearls in my recent order! Thank you so much for taking time and matching them into pairs, it's very appreciated. Thank you and I am definitely going to buy at your store in the future.

Jaquie

It can be difficult to order gemstones online - no such worries with Kernowcraft - you really do care about your products & clients and it shows.

Maggi Henman

I’ve just had my first order from you and I am so pleased with the fast delivery and the quality of the products. The satin cords and the findings really finished off my ceramic jewellery.

Christine Wood

Just want to say a very big thank you for your quick delivery and excellent service. The stones I ordered arrived this morning, the quality and price are second to none. I was delighted with my purchase. Thank you so much.

Lauren Jodie Piercy

Beautiful gemstones and a lot of choice. Running competitions and being interactive as well really sets them apart. Keep up the interesting content.

Gloria Williams

I just came across your online shop and my first reaction was wow! It has everything i need to carry on with my jewellery making. I've seen things that i have been looking for and couldn't find in so many other shops!

April Luescher

Beautiful quality and colours - I rarely buy semi-precious stones anywhere else these days. Very helpful, superb service, speedy delivery. What more could anyone want?

Eve

The stones are excellent quality, and the special request I put in for dark citrines and paired malachites has been met perfectly. I am delighted with Kernowcraft, and will be back!

Denise Mountain Pike

I recently ordered a couple of replacement stones from you and I'd just like to say how happy I am with my purchase and very impressed with the friendly helpful service you gave. Thank you very much.

Jill Hammersely

I just wanted to say a massive thank you to the team, particularly the ladies that helped me yesterday. Delivery took less than 24hrs, that's amazing. The quality of both cabochons and settings are stunning.

Jenny Kirkwood

Love the service you get and appreciate the range of products on offer. I just used the alligator tape for the first time and found myself asking - where have you been all my life?