This project is brilliant if you're a beginner metalsmith, showing you how to solder a bezel cup onto a ring band and how to set the stone for a simple yet beautiful design.
Once you've tried this method, you can then move on to making your own bezel setting from scratch!
This tutorial is in collaboration with Kim Thomson as part of our 12 Months of Metal Series, where Kim shares free metalsmithing video tutorials - with each month focusing on a new technique.
Follow Kim's ring project below and have a go at making your own ring!
The first step is to make the ring band - you can follow our step by step tutorial with photos on how to do this here.
Flux the area where the ring band will join to the bezel cup and use a third hand to position the band on top of the cup.
Place a pallion of solder strip next to the join, opposite to where you will be heating the join.
Use a gas torch to heat the air surrounding the piece, then circle around the entire ring band in slow circles until the solder flows. Using tweezers, quench the ring in water then put it in the pickle solution. Once the ring is white and all signs of firescale are gone, remove the ring from the pickle using plastic tweezers and rinse in water. File away any excess solder on the join with your metal file then with wet and dry paper.
Check that the stone fits nicely in the bezel cup - if the height of the bezel cup is too high, remove the stone from the cup and use files to reduce the height, or pop a circle of wire at the bottom of the bezel cup to raise the cabochon up. Read our advice page: how to adjust bezel cups for more information.
Use a pusher or a bezel rocker to push the bezel over the stone.
Next, use a burnisher to push and rub over the curve of the bezel setting to smoothen the setting and make it lovely and shiny. You can also take the tip and gently rub it on the top edge of the setting to make it neat and shiny - be careful not to damage your stone during this step.
We stock over 500 stunning gemstone cabochons in a range of shapes and sizes!
Discover our selection of loose settings, including bezel cups in a range of metals, shapes and sizes, snaptite settings, claw settings, pre-notched settings and backset settings.
A pusher is a workshop essential and an affordable tool for pushing bezels and claws over stones during setting.