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Q: If I buy a gas torch from Kernowcraft will it come with gas?
A: None of our gas torches come supplied with gas as we are not able to send gas through the
post. Gas for these torches is readily available from most newsagents and DIY stores.
Q: I cut some memory wire using side cutters and its damaged them, why is this?
A: This is not a fault with the cutters, they are just not suitable for cutting a wire that is as hard as
memory wire. Memory wire is made of stainless steel that has been tempered to make it hard and retain
its shape. The cutters that we recommend for using with memory wire are the heavy duty side cutters
(C151) which are made of a harder metal than the regular side cutters which are not suitable for cutting
memory wire
Q: What should I cut memory wire with?
A: Memory wire can be cut with the heavy duty side cutters which are made of a hard enough
metal to not be damaged by this hard wire. Be aware that memory wire will ruin most jewellery wire cutters,
so be sure to use the correct tool.
Q: What can I use the Dremel Multitool for?
A: Due to the multitude of accessories that will fit this hand held tool, you can use the Dremel
Multitool for detailed sanding, carving, engraving, cutting, drilling, grinding, cleaning and polishing. This is a
very useful tool for any silversmith or jewellery maker and is well recommended.
Q: What drill bits and accessories will fit the Dremel Multitool?
A All our twist drill bits will fit the Dremel 300 Series Multitool, using either the multi chuck collet C109E or the relevant sized collet for the drill. You can also use the stone setting burrs with the Dremel
using the multi chuck collet.
Q: I am using Precious Metal Clay and find that it is sticking to my fingers and work surface,
how can I prevent this?
A: Rub a little olive oil onto your hands, work surface, rolling pin and any other item that will come
into contact with the clay, to prevent it from sticking.
Q: I’ve bought some of the PMC+ Sheet but am not sure where to start or how to use it! Can
you help?
A: The PMC+ Sheet is made with a different binder than the clay that means it will not dry out and
will not stick to itself (so cannot be rolled up and remoulded). Unlike the clay you won’t be able to impress
textures into it, but you can create some really interesting effects with it that you couldn’t with the clay. You
could cut the sheet with fancy edges scissors, cut it into strips and weave together, fold and drape it to
create a fabric-like effect or even fold into origami. There are so many techniques that you could use, why
not try incorporating the sheet and clay together in a design - see the projects section for ideas.
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Q: Once I have made a mould with the 2 part Moulding Compound will I be able to reform it
into another mould?
A: No, once the 2 parts of the moulding compound have been mixed together they will begin to set
and after about 15 minutes it will have set to a hard rubbery state. This cannot be reformed again. However
you can use the moulds that you have created again and again to create many PMC items.
My PMC piece is dried but not fired yet, the edges are rough and look messy can I neaten
it up before I fire it?
A: Yes, once the PMC has dried out you can use emery boards or fine sandpaper to smooth edges
or carve into it to make patterns or textures. It will be much easier to make any alterations or neaten it up at
this stage than after it has been fired, as then it will be a hard metal and will take much more effort to work
it.
Q: My PMC starts to look cracked and dry out whilst I am still using it, how can I prevent
this?
A: This is because the air is drying it out. You can avoid this by trying not to over handle the PMC.
Before you open your PMC, have an idea of what you are going to make - you could create a mock up
using plastercine to help you design it. Once the pack is opened you need to keep any unused PMC
airtight, keep wrapped in cling film. It may also be a good idea to put a damp sponge in the packet to keep
the atmosphere damp. If the piece you are working on is drying out too quickly you can spray it lightly with
water to rehydrate it.
Q; What gemstones can I fire in Precious Metal Clay?
A: Many stones are not able to withstand the high temperatures of firing. We carried out some
experiments and discovered that the stone that withstood the high temperatures of torch firing the best
was White Cubic Zirconia. Lab grown stones like this are more tolerant to high temperatures than natural
stones. Some gemstones will discolour, shatter, or blacken. Some stones will survive better if fired in a kiln,
as the PMC can be fired at a lower temperatures for a longer time. Remember never to quench (plunge
into water) hot PMC set with stones, as the stones will be unable to withstand the sudden temperature
change. We would always recommend that you carry out your own experiments before firing a gemstone
in a PMC design.
Q: My PMC design looks white after firing - is it meant to?
A: After firing, PMC will have a white, matt look to it, this is normal and due to the surface being
uneven and porous. To achieve a silver finish, first brush with water and soap using a brass brush to get
a brushed, satin finish. If you want a super, shiny polished finish, burnish with either a curved or straight
burnisher.
Q: What will happen if I get my PMC too hot whilst firing?
A: If you get the Precious Metal Clay too hot whilst firing then it will begin to melt. As with all silver it has a melting temperature and if you get it too hot it will simply melt into a ball. The surface will begin to look
mottled and silvery, this is a sign that the PMC is too hot and you will need to remove the flame to prevent it
melting. If you are new to PMC and silverwork it is a good idea to experiment with a small ball of PMC and
fire it to melting point so that you can recognise the signs when a piece is getting too hot.
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